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 The
Devil's Bridge is one of the symbols of
Cividale del Friuli. Boldly suspended on
the Natisone River is wrapped in legend.
The two banks were joined, at least from
the 1200's, by a wooden passage, replaced,
after various inconclusive attempts, by
a stone bridge planned by lacopo Dugaro
from Bissone, who began the construction
in 1442. The job, slow and contrasted by
adversity of varied nature, continued five
years after under the guide of Erardo (or
Everardo) from Villaco, the former collaborator
of Dugaro, that perhaps died of plague or,
according to other versions, he gave up
without completely honouring his contractual
obligation. When the master builder Erardo
died, Bartolomeo delle Cisterne finished
the long desired bridge, that according
to a notarial
act, was paved in the 1501 and in the 1558.
Its ends were defended by towers, pulled
down around the second half of the past
century. Works of restoration followed one
another in the course of the ages in order
to maintain in full efficiency the indispensable
passage, that it had to support the impetuous
floods of the river. In 1843, during the
works of reinforcing the central pillar,
they recovered two important stones of Roman
age, now in Museum. The fate of the bridge
had a tragic epilogue the 27th of October
1917 when, during the defeat of Caporetto,
it was blown up attempting to slow down
the enemy. A useless destruction, as the
Imperial Army crossed the river the same
evening.The bridge was however reconstructed
in short times, by the Germans with local
skilled workers, keeping the ancient structure
following the precise reliefs executed years
before by the engineer Ernesto de Paciani
of Cividale. The street was widened by two
meters. Already the 18th of May 1918, the
new bridge was solemny inaugurated. But
it had short life for the 29th of
April 1945 the Germans tried to blow up,
but this time it did not suffered many damages.
It therefore remained unchanged in its original
lines, only the parapets and irony loops
have been replaced with the current parapet,
perhaps aesthetically less well-chosen,
but able to mitigate violent squalls of
wind that run over the bridge in winter.
The rocky walls the arches of the bridge
rest on have been recently reinforced, they
are different, one is of m. 22 and the other
of m. 18, with a height of m. 22.5. The
central pillar rests on a natural rock,
protruding nearly in the center of the bed
river.The popular fantasy has connected
the construction of the bridge to the supernatural,
giving origin to the demoniac legend, diffused
in innumerable variants, according to which
the devil would have facilitated the construction
of the bridge in exchange of the soul of
the first person passing through. To carry
out in the short space of one night the
Evil One bothered also his mother, and she
carried in her apron the central imposing
rock. But the inhabitants of Cividale mocked
the devil, sending through the new passage
an animal, dog or cat according to the versions.
The admirable buliding inspired the arts:
writers have dedicated to it pages of intense
poetry, while skillful painters have reproduced
it in their works, fixing shapes and colors,
with the transparency of waters. On the
left bank of the river, the wiew of the
town deserves to have some photos taken
and one can go down to the gravelley river
bed from a stairway, that starts from the
boundary of the parapet, on the right. From
the bottom, the two archs reveal all their
majesty and a thought goes to the inventor
of the brilliant realization that, after
many centuries, is still in a position to
excite wonder and admiration. The new belvedere,
realized behind the close church of S. Martino,
gives the possibility to enjoy a wonderful
landscape. From here the colored houses
are visible, the animated running after
one another of loggias and balconies, the
bell towers and on the background the hilly
reliefs and the Matajur (m. 1641) and the
Black Mount (m. 2245). Westwards the river
is furrowed by the large arch of the new
bridge, that from 1988 it joins the two
sides of the river with its futuristic structure.
Testi tratti dalla guida
Storico Artistica di Claudio Mattaloni
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